Wicked Hot Out, Guy

It’s fucking hot outside. Native American summer. Anyone else thinking about the beach? Unfortunately, few of us will ever achieve the beach-style perfection of my hero above. This was taken on Plum Island, a sandbar that protects the Mass roast beef heartland, the summer after the Celtics won their 17th championship (suck it, Kobe). Every person at the beach had something green on.
Behind Plum Island are epic salt marshes that are home to the famed Ipswich mud clam. Someday we hope to sell mud clams, both fried and steamed.
Speaking of big dudes and Ipswich clams, here’s the late, great R.W. Apple on the subject:
New England fried clams — fried soft clams, that is — were supposedly invented on July 3, 1916, by a restaurateur named Lawrence Woodman, known as Chubby. Woodman’s, in Essex, Mass., north of Boston, still serves the genuine article. In the city, Mr. White, of whom more in a moment, is considered the fried-clam king. But New Englanders often call soft clams ”Ipswich clams,” because the best ones come from the mud flats near that town, so my wife, Betsey, and I went right to the source.
A 30-minute drive northeast of Boston, the Clam Box is a gray wooden shack shaped like the cardboard container in which fried clams are traditionally served. The sign on the way into town tells you Ipswich was founded in 1634, and many of the clapboard houses look as if they were built soon afterward. In a setting like this, no one would dare to violate tradition, and Marina Aggelakis doesn’t. Known as Chickie, she has run the Clam Box for the last 20 years, lately with her son, Dimitri.
Betsey, who spent some of her childhood summers on Martha’s Vineyard, knew we had the right place the minute we got out of the car. She breathed in the soft, briny smell emanating from the Friolators inside and exclaimed, ”My youth!”
Sometimes the Clam Box, like all of its competitors, is forced by local shortages to serve clams from Maine. But we were in luck. Ours were authentic natives, dipped in evaporated milk, dredged in finely ground corn meal, fried twice in a mixture of ”animal fat” (lard?) and vegetable oil, and thoroughly drained. They emerged exactly crunchy enough, and so greaseless that after we seasoned them with some extra salt and pepper and wolfed them down, there was no oil and no smell left on our fingers.
We could have eaten a ton.